Hot Springs, NC-Erwin, TN

     It's chilly in the unheated bunkhouse, which also happens to be where the computer sits, so this will be brief. We made great time coming from Hot Springs. Out first 20 miler, which was actually 21.3 miles, followed by a 19 mile day made for some fatigued muscles. We continue with Red Ryder as the French Canadians stay about a half day ahead of us. Yesterday I nearly came to the breaking point. I had been having abdominal cramping, which means that my hip strap is useless and all the weight is on my shoulders. With nothing to do but contemplate for hours on the trail, I determined that I was suffering from insufficient sodium. I was craving pedialyte. It was only a 17 mile day, with the promise of a hot shower and warm food at the end of the day. However, the trail seemed to grow longer and longer as we passed hill after hill.

     Our "final" climb out of the last gap was longer than expected, and then the icing on the cake were 4 PUDS (pointless ups & downs). At the bottom of the fourth I was furious, "There is no reason to make us to go up, only to go down again, why can't we go around!" Thankfully, that really was the last one, and led to a beautiful view of the Nolichucky River and the outskirts of Erwin below. With less than 3 miles to go we kept traversing in and out of view of life below as we drew ever closer. Adrenalin kicked in and I would incorporate sprints into my hiking pattern as the terrain allowed. This phenomenon is quite common when hikers can almost taste and smell real food that hasn't been freeze-dried.

     At last, the final bend in the path and my feet were on solid asphalt. And there it stood, Uncle Johnny's hostel with the promise of 40 cent snickers. I made my way to the porch, sloughed off my pack, and collapsed into the lawn chair. Out came Uncle Johnny who asked if there was anything he could get me to feel better, "Pedialyte" I said, exhausted and somewhat dazed. I could tell he had no earthly idea what I was requesting as he continued with small talk about where I had come from and what the weather conditions were like. After Coyote & Red Ryder came up, we were given the option of the hostel, or "Granny's." We checked out both and opted for granny's, which I do believe was his mother-in-law's house, as the decorations and furnishings scream of an earlier era. Everything in the trailer was free game, so we chowed down on peanut butter and jelly from food left from the previous hikers.

     That night I was snooping around and found a goldmine--Eeyore pajamas (sorry, no footies) and a cotton warm-up suit. I claimed the PJ's for the night--anything to get out of hiker-smelling clothes that have been worn on and off for over 20 days now. Real bed with real sheets. I slept great & woke to the smell of Red Ryder making caramel sticky buns, biscuits, and gravy for breakfast.

     It's a beautiful, sunny day without a cloud in sight. 60's with a slight breeze. Nate and I purchased a knitted frisbee and have been pleased with its functionality. Nate's in town buying more food (his stomach has no bottom) and I'm just catching up on my blogging and reading from the library for the rest of the day. Tomorrow we will set out for Roan Mountain, the last leg of our journey. The zero days have made this trip...wonderful...
~Peach